Sihh 2011

[milan zmaj]

Richard Mille RM030 Watch




The new complication here in the Richard Mille RM 030 is quizzical to me. The idea is that the automatic rotor detaches from winding the mainspring is full. The mainspring has a total power reserve of 50 hours, when it gets down to 40 hours, the rotor reattaches thanks to a type of clutch. Why? To theoretically assist with keeping the movement as safe as can be. Leave it to the people who make watches for use in tennis matches to consider the happiness of little machines. The irony makes me smile. I do love the clean face that still feels highly functional. I'd sport it.
Read my full article on the Richard Mille RM 030 watch at Haute Living here.

[milan zmaj]

Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater Watch




For 2011 one of Audemars Piguet's exotic complication pieces will be this Millenary Minute Repeater watch. I was told by Audemars Piguet that their Millenary line is undergoing an overhaul. Looks like 2011 will not be the year we see new Millenary cases and style, but we will see this sophisticated Minute Repeater with another interesting balance wheel and escapement device.
The terminology throws me off a bit. There are terms like "AP Exhaust Pulse Direct." Not sure what that is, but it sounds like something from a race car, not timepiece. Previous to this new movement, Audemars Piguet showed off its AP Escapement. That escapement was really fast, to allow for greater accuracy. The AP Escapement was one that they developed to run at something like 72,000 bpm (amazing). Here in the Millenary Minute Repeater, the movement has slower 21,600 bpm movement, but AP uses one of those trendy new "double balance spring." These are pretty neat and are supposed to help cancel out error making the movement more accurate. Basically the balance spring attaches at two points (versus the older Breguet over-coil style attachment). If I had larger images I would show you a closeup of the escapement so that you could see what I am talking about.

Double balance springs (also called "double flat spiral here) work pretty well I hear, but I don't have a quantifiable number as to how much better they are. It is part of a brand new movement which is the Caliber 2910. It mixed that exotic new double balance spring with a minute repeater. Cause you know, having a minute repeater is never not appreciate. AP does however make it clear that the watch is NOT water resistant. Most good minute repeaters aren't - because sealing a case makes minute repeaters often sound like crap. The watch has a power reserve of 165 hours, which is really long. That is between two barrles. A third barrel is in there for the minute repeater's power needs. The movement is also neat because it is oval in shape - which I find cool.
The Millenary case here is 47mm wide and in titanium. AP is still on their "light" watch kick. At least it is not in a precious material - that would really harm the sound of minute repeater. Over on the front of the watch is a combo of a real dial and an open movement. The mix is well done from a style perspective. AP designers did a good job at combining a sense of technical sophistication with old world elegance. On the right of the dial the pink gold tones hour makers and hand are traditional and attractive. Moving to the right the dial is more futuristic. This starts with the white and red colors of the subsidiary seconds dial, as well as the open movement and exposed double balance spring style escapement. Great use of contrast by AP right?
The movement design is also interesting because of how elements are arranged. The front of the watch has elements like the minute repeater hammers and gong, as well as the escapement. These elements tends to be reserved for the back of a movement. Last, there is a new security mechanism the prevents the user from setting the time while the minute repeater function is in operation. This would otherwise potentially damage the movement. Details such as this are necessary for fully appreciating the work that went into a piece such as this. Not sure about price or how many will be made. I will learn more soon.

Tech specs from Audemars Piguet:
Movement

• Manufacture Caliber 2910
• Hours / minutes to 3 hours off-center, off center at 7 seconds
• Winding stem with 3 positions
• Bolt: repeat triggering minutes 7am
• Movement dimensions (WxH): 37.90 x 32.90 mm
• Casing diameter (WxH): 37.00 x 32.00 mm
• Total height of movement: 10,05 mm
• AP Exhaust Pulse Direct
• Balance with weights varying inertia
• Beam diameter: 11.90 mm
• Double flat spiral
• Power reserve: 165 hours
• Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
• Number of components: 443 parts
• Ruby: 40 stones
• Finish: hand-decorated all components: bevelling hand, reentrant corners, snailed, haggard, "Côtes de Genève and horizontal graining on the plate

Housing

• Oval titanium casing
• Width: 47 mm
• Height: 42 mm
• Sapphire back
• Unsealed

Dial

• Anthracite dial, gold applied Roman numerals, pink, silver small second counter

Bracelet

• Hand-sewn alligator strap black "large square scales with AP folding clasp in titanium

Functions

• Hours and minutes
• Small seconds
• Minute repeater

[dragon]

:sad: AP Repeater sam čuvao za sam kraj.

btw, gde si ti Milane? Nešto te nema u poslednje vreme?

[milan zmaj]

pa nema zato sto nemam osnovno stedstvo za zivot
eto ako oces da znas...
cekam cekam cekam cekam i nikad ovoooliko nisam cekao
ali cu valjda da docekam

[milan zmaj]

:sad: AP Repeater sam čuvao za sam kraj.

btw, gde si ti Milane? Nešto te nema u poslednje vreme?

e sto volim sto sam te .....ebao.....hehhe to mi je draze nego ista! i kad ce to jedna dva piva sto si rekao

[dragon]

U toku sledeće nedelje.

[dragon]

Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin

SIHH 2011 su ove godine obeležili mehanizmi i satovi male debljine, mnogi proizvođači su se utrkivali ko će predstaviti najtanji mehanizam i ručni sat a Piaget je opet bio u samom vrhu demonstrirajući svoju snagu i umeće u ovoj oblasti visokog časovničarstva.
Gotovo tri godine je Piaget razvijao i testirao svoj novi automatski mehanizam sa turbilon komplikacijom a rezultat tog višegodišnjeg rada je predstavljen u vidu Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin ručnog sata.




Kućište jastučastog oblika (cushion-shaped) zahvaljujući novom mehanizmu donekle specifičnog oblika ima debljinu od samo 10.4mm što predstavlja veliki uspeh za sat koji poseduje tourbilon komplikaciju. Prečnik kućišta ipak prati aktuelne trendove u časovničarskoj industriji pa tako iznosi 46.5mm a materijali od kojih će se ovo “jastuče” izrađivati jesu 18-karatno belo i rozo zlato.

Brojčanik na ovom satu je možda malo nepregledan ali je svakako prilično interesantan. Većina proizvođača se trudi da omogući pogled na njihova mehanička remek dela postavljanjem prozirnih poklopaca na kućištima satova i verujem da mnogi vlasnici satova vole da vide kako se svi ti mali zupčanici tokom okretanja zamajca pokreću i kako radi balansni točak ali to uglavnom zahteva skidanje sata sa ruke što ponekad ume da bude zamorno. Piaget je prilikom dizaniranja sata otišao korak dalje pa sada svaki vlasnik Emperador Coussin Tourbillon modela može da vidi kako mehanizam radi ne skidajući sat sa ruke. Zahvaljujući konstrukciji mehanizma, na brojčanik su postavljeni leteći turbilon i mikro-zamajac izrađen od čistog zlata a sam brojčanik je u stvari izrađen od stakla koje je laserski gravirano čime je omogućen pogled na pojedine delove mehanizma. Pored letećeg turbilona i dekorisanog zamajca, na brojčaniku su naravno postavljene i kazaljke i to na poziciji “5h”. Staklo koje prekriva brojčanik je safirno dok je poklopac kućišta samo delimično izrađen od punog materijala. Na poklopcu se kroz dva mala prozora mogu videti indikator rezerve snage i turbilon kavez.



Piaget je za ovaj sat razvio novi mehanizam, kako kažu u samoj kompaniji, kombinujući najbolje osobine kalibara 600P i 1208P. Novi Piaget mehanizam, kalibar 1270P, predstavlja na svetu najtanji mehanizam na automatsko navijanje sa turbilon komplikacijom i ovo je 17. ultra-tanki mehanizam koji dolazi iz Piaget radionica. Mehanizam ima debljinu od 5.55mm dok su pojedini zupčanici “visoki“ samo 0.12mm. Piaget kalibar 1270P se sastoji od 269 delova, ima 35 rubina dok se balansni točak okreće sa 6 promena u sekundi. Rezerva snage iznosi 40 sati a najbitnija komplikacija koju mehanizam poseduje jeste leteći turbilon.



Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin će se isporučivati sa narukvicom braon ili crne boje izrađenom od kože aligatora i preklapajućom kopčom koja će biti urađena od 18-karatnog belog ili rozog zlata a cena novog Piaget ručnog sata još uvek nije poznata.

[nikola0406]

Jastuceee,vidite da znam sta je u modi Kakav sat,strasan rad,strasno lepo ukrasavanje mehanizma. Bravo dragonce,svaka ti cast.